Leather
Leather craftsmanship in Colombia is an ancient trade deeply rooted in the land, with origins in the intersection of local indigenous traditions and influences brought by Spanish colonization. This fusion gave rise to a practice rich in knowledge, techniques, and symbolism that has evolved over centuries, yet maintaining a strong connection to the land, manual skill, and cultural identity.
HISTORY
Before the arrival of the Spanish, some indigenous populations already used animal hides to create clothing, footwear, and ritual instruments. However, it was with the introduction of European tanning and leatherworking techniques that leather craftsmanship developed into a structured trade. The colonists brought with them not only livestock, but also tools, knowledge, and customs that were subsequently reinterpreted by local populations, giving rise to a unique and highly distinctive style.
Artisanal leatherwork combines skilled hands and inherited knowledge, making possible a supply chain that seeks balance between tradition, ethics, and innovation.
social and economic importance
Leather craftsmanship is a fundamental resource for many families and micro-enterprises. The artisanal processing of leather helps strengthen the local economy and the autonomy of rural and urban communities, building webs of relationships that have created ethical production and distribution networks, involving important and recognized Colombian brands that value local production and the ancient craft.
In recent years, various artisans and businesses are rediscovering the use of vegetable tanning techniques, which are more environmentally friendly than industrial ones. Furthermore, there is an increasing use of salvaged leather or scraps from the food industry, contributing to a circular economy. This commitment to sustainability is accompanied by a growing focus on transparency and traceability of materials, elements increasingly demanded by national and international markets.
PROCESS
The leather processing involves several stages, often still performed by hand:
Trimming and cleaning of raw hide: as soon as it is obtained, the hide is cleaned by hand from meat and fat residues to prevent contamination during tanning. It is then immersed in water to soften and wash it thoroughly.
Tanning: this is the crucial stage for stabilizing the hide and transforming it into leather. In Colombia, some artisans still use vegetable tanning, a traditional method that employs natural tannins extracted from mimosa, quebracho, or guayacán barks. This process can last even 30-40 days but guarantees high-quality leather with a warm, natural texture, ideal for carving and decoration. In more urban contexts, mixed or chrome methods can also be used for greater water resistance and more uniform coloring.
Drying and staking: the tanned leather is slowly dried in the shade, avoiding direct sun exposure to prevent altering its properties. Then it undergoes staking, a manual process of softening and stretching the fibers to obtain a smooth, compact, and workable surface.
Dyeing and finishing of leather: the color is applied by hand with pads, sponges, or brushes, in multiple thin layers to achieve deep and uniform shades. Natural dyes, such as indigo, walnut, or oak, are often preferred by traditional artisans. Following this, waxes, oils, or vegetable resins are applied to protect the leather, enhance its grain, and make it more durable over time.
Cutting and shaping: the leather is cut with extreme precision following hand-drawn patterns. Traditional tools include sharp knives, leather compasses, and trimmers. Each part of the object is then carefully shaped, folded, sewn, or glued, according to the desired final form.
Decoration and engraving: this stage is what distinguishes a fine artisan product. Decorations can include:
Hand carvings, executed with chisels or punches on damp leather, to create floral, geometric, or symbolic designs.
Hot stamping, using heated metal stamps to impress permanent motifs.
Pyrography, a refined technique where the surface is lightly burned to draw with precision.
Decorative stitching, with colored waxed cotton or leather threads, which embellish edges and details.
Assembly and final touches: all parts are assembled with manual stitching or metal rivets, often finished with sanded and waxed edges. The finished object is then polished with wool cloths and treated with beeswax or coconut oil for a brilliant and natural final appearance.
This long and meticulous process is what makes each leather creation unique and unrepeatable, with marks that tell the story of craftsmanship and the material. Each piece is the result of time, patience, and inherited knowledge. The creations chosen by Chisakui propose innovative and experimental methods, which together with other techniques such as painting or weaving, give life to unique and curious objects.
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